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New York Fashion Week goes for eight days. There are shows from 9am until 9pm every single one of those days, often three in an hour. Unless you have a whole lot of spare time on your hands, are actually there, or have the Getty runway image stream downloading directly into your brain like some kind of mode-Matrix, keeping up with all the shows is not an easy thing to do. Fortunately, we have all three (kidding about that last one, but a girl can dream), so we've filtered New York down into a few key collection talking points.  Think of it as a set of sartorial spark notes, and fake your way to a fashionable conversation or two.

The Evening Dream: Jason Wu
When it comes to spectacular evening gowns , New York and Paris are the fashion weeks worth watching, the former particularly if you have an interest in what Michelle Obama is going to be wearing in six months time. This year Zac Posen came back to American runways after time showing in Paris, prom dresses under 300 with a collection that was intensely Hollywood glam. The prodigal son's return home however, was overshadowed by the fact that Jason Wu has snatched up king of the night status. Wu does intensity well, his work has a high-wattage kind of power-femme appeal that speaks to situations where one is never truly dressed down. For evening, this was yanked several stories higher, but retained that sense that the mood, rather than occasion, is what should dictate exactly how a woman presents. Rather than playing within the lines of what an evening frock "should" be, his bold visions offered a new take - uncompromising layers of flouncing fabric were cut into trains of intense drama, but crafted in such a way as to avoid prissiness. This was aided by the use of contrast colour bodices which looked at once casual and anything but. That Wu managed to make so much heft and frill feel compelling and modern is amazing, and it is this new toughness that had critics singing his praises.
 
The one who did it better, cheaper:  Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs
All eyes were intently on Marc Jacobs this season, as rumours he is to take on the Dior mantle have been elevated to all-but-confirmed status. He has been very busy with other things if the collection he showed for his mainline Marc Jacobs was anything to go by. Not that there was anything wrong with the range of clapping squares of plastic beading, high cut trousers and close-sitting, knee length skirts. It just wasn't the designer's best work, hardly a standout in his storied canon of creation. Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designer's hugely profitable diffusion line, was more noteworthy. Dealing in that ever fruitful medium of youthful, accessible eccentricity (never underestimate an audience's desire to feel a bit different without looking it), Marc by Marc Jacobs grew up this season, streamlining into a graphic collection of blocked colours, classic American prep silhouettes, with only the occasional ruffle or frill to add fuss to the effect. Intensely bright mens suiting, and matching casual jackets and short sets were also intriguing, and a significant nod to Jil Sander.

The old new kid: Thakoon
Thakoon was one of the indisputable stand out shows this season. Exploring the this season's well worn territory of brights and prints, Thakoon's vision was far more masterful than most. This is perhaps because these themes are familiar for the designer, who explores some take on them every season (rather than picking print up when the trend is right like most on the runways) but there was more to it than that. The Thai-born American designer was perhaps drawing from personal experience with his collection, an East-meets-Western theme that saw Bollywood knock boots with John Wayne. Cowboy shirts rubbed up against classic sari detailing like neat spaced gold stripes, Old West ruffled skirts met madisar front folding and everything was brilliantly, teemingly alive with colour. This was  a strong singular vision executed with conviction, but at the same time it still felt accessible enough to carry over into the real world. It was made up of garments that aren't in line with your typical pants-skirts- dresses -and-tops wardrobe, but could be woven into one. Less successful in this endeavour was the similarly positioned Prabal Gurung, whose intense collection of sheer panels, tulley textures, sharp chevrons and ultraviolet prints felt unyielding; wedding dresses wedding dresses fun for fashionistas, but a little too far away from reality for his conservative New York audience.

The new new kid: Patrik Ervell
davids bridal swatches davids bridal swatches There are at least three menswear designers in London who have courted the ladies for the first time this season, but in New York the cross dress was all about Patrik Ervell. Ervell's menswear has been an insider-secret for several seasons now, with his young take on suiting, and skill for smart casual attracting a keen customer base that consists (online at least), of a great deal of women - 20% of his website's customers, apparently. Kirsten Dunst is a fan, it was Ervell who made the razor-sharp tux the starlet shone in at the CFDA Awards. This season, he didn't need to do that much adapting for the girls, showing sporty, slightly slouchy shapes with jock details like thick V collars and wide, short sleeves. The whole range looked clean, clear, bright and masculine, with even that most vampish of items - a leather skirt - taking on a tomboy air. A saturated print - what Ervell called a Hawaiian, wedding guest dresses but which looked like it had bled in the wash with a glow stick - made for attractive coloured collar detailing (a burgeoning trend), and was pretty on relaxed silk dresses, while Ervell's menswear offering was as concise and covetable as ever.

Mon Cheri Bridals is home to the finest collections of designer wedding dresses, bridesmaid dresses, wedding gowns, mother of the bride dresses and more. The classics, nailed: Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein
This season the 'Princess Effect', that lust for elegant, feminine and dressy-for-day pieces induced by a public obsession for Lady Catherine nee Middleton manifested itself in wonderfully different, but equally covetable ways at two of the big American houses, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. At Ralph Lauren red dresses for prom for sale , it was an exploration of a distinctly American brand of royalty, as clean cut and wholesome as you'd expect from the brand so intrinsically linked to the polo, but this time with a swishy dose of twenties eccentricity, in a confectioner's palette of pastel and icing sugar white. Feathered coats at the end of the show amped up the glamour factor, while a buttery motorcycle jacket in baby pink - worn with pearls - was (as one of our new favourite fashion bloggers rightfully pointed out) girlification at its best. The whole thing had that champagne-bubble dizziness you associate with the roaring twenties, but thanks to that optimistic palette, there was no foreshadowing of dark, hungover times to come.

At Calvin Klein, the creations had perhaps a touch too much sauce for a real princess to don, but for those of us not scrutinised for sensuality, it was  a love affair with the lady-like. Francisco Costa's work for Calvin Klein has up until this point avoided the label's sexier side, but this season best celebrity wedding guest dresses , by drawing on the delicate techniques of classic cosetry, lingerie and sleepwear crafting, Costa did just that. Princess seams (there she is again), and other sorts of intricate paneling around the bodices of dresses and blouses created a slender waist, whilst hemlines fell flirtatiously just beneath the knee, at that sweet spot that compliments the curvature of the calf, before dropping to floor length for a series of fluid, deceptively simple seeming evening looks. That the first half of the collection was shown in nude contributed a great deal to the allusions of flesh, but even in dove grey, cream and black, the clothes had astonishing sex appeal.

The classics re-envisioned: Oscar de la Renta
Over the past year, Oscar de la Renta has done rather a lot of complaining about Michelle Obama's wardrobe choices (she wears too many foreign clothes, she wears too many young designers, she doesn't wear de la Renta), but this season he put his talent where his tongue was, and designed a range the First Lady might actually want to wear. In fact, so youthful was this collection, that it seemed like a range a leggy socialite in her twenties - rather than her mother - might want to wear it too. This freshness was delivered by opulent embellishments like swooshing feathers, a freeflowing, romantic skimming of the waist celebrity evening dresses uk celebrity evening dresses uk, and the bold use of black beads in the styling. Giant puff-ball sleeves were a bit too far on the Disney side, however, and fans of the mirrored floral print in the range (particularly in blue on a slim, belted shift) should probably go and buy Jonathan Saunders' current collection, since it looks suspiciously similar, is available now, and costs a lot less.

The trendsetters: Proenza Schouler
If the last several seasons have been anything to go by, one should always look to Proenza Schouler this year to figure out what everyone will be on to the next. In this instance, it was graphic contrasts; print panels interspersed with plain, shouty, shiny bright leathers and pops of pale too bitter to be pastel. They also went for a lady-like shape, this one a figure hugging knee length style, with a sporty emphasis on the shoulder, that felt zippy despite the restriction of movement that is a necessary aspect of wearing a pencil skirt.

The rest: If you want to talk trends, it's all about minding your P's: namely pastels and prints. They were inescapable, and those that weren't used to them didn't always handle them well. As for atmosphere, every fashion week is always the same. Complain about the queues.